Soho and the ‘Danish Way’

Whilst all areas of London have faced and will face physical change as the city continues to grow and develop, its characteristics remain intact.

In central London, for example, you can walk through the adjoining neighbourhoods of Knightsbridge, Mayfair and Marylebone, and each one provides a unique and distinct atmosphere.

Head west through Fitzrovia, Bloomsbury and into Soho and again the spirit within each district is noticeably different.

Soho, as much as any of London’s boroughs, is in a constant state of flux.

Its buildings are regularly replaced, rebuilt or refurbished to the extent that some of the extremities of Soho have changed beyond recognition, and yet its soul remains.

The heart of Soho has always been irreverent, secret, defiant and playful.

It is a magnet for those with a sense of adventure, who don’t always want to comply.

It has been like that since early Victorian times, and many of its more famous residents are remembered on the blue plaques that can be found attached to several of Soho’s older buildings.

One of which can be seen opposite a new restaurant called KöD in St Anne’s Court.

The plaque tells us that in the early 1970s David Bowie recorded two of his most famous albums, Hunky Dory and The Rise and Fall of Ziggy Stardust, including the single Space Oddity, in the Trident Studios housed in that building.

KöD

St Anne’s Court is little more than a pedestrian cut through linking Soho’s Wardour Street and Dean Street.

It is known to locals but visitors and tourists could easily pass it by. With the opening of KöD, there is now a very good reason to seek it out.

The name KöD means meat in Danish and is pronounced similarly to ‘cool’.

KöD Soho is the eighth opening, the second in the UK, under this brand name for owner-operators DiningSix, who celebrate their 10th anniversary this year.

There are currently three successful sites in Denmark – two in Copenhagen and one in Aarhus as well as three Norway premises in Frogner and Posthallen, Oslo and another in Stavanger.

Dining

Don’t expect anything too Danish, aside from the name and a few measures of Aquavit and Cherry Heering in some of the cocktails, KöD is essentially a steak restaurant, but it’s a very, very good steak restaurant.

Running the kitchen operations for the UK restaurants is James Durrant who previously worked for Gordon Ramsay Holdings and The Stafford Hotel.

The menu at both restaurants is pretty much the same including starters of Tri-Tip tacos, Langoustine tortellini and Beef carpaccio followed by  steak highlights such as English Cote de KöD (grass-fed, Hereford & Angus, aged Himalayan salt, carved in the kitchen to share), Chateaubriand and Scottish Striploin, served with a choice of four sauces (béarnaise, port glaze, Madagascar pepper & chimichurri).

Fries four ways (fresh thyme & sea salt, sweet potato, chilli-garlic, truffle) head up the sides as well as Corn ribs, Grilled hispi cabbage and Truffle mac & cheese.

Design

The design for KöD Soho is a collaboration between Catrine Ortwed, a part of the restaurant management team, and Kristian Skjød Jensen, one of the founding partners of DiningSix. The contractor was Alpine.

A few years ago, number two St Anne’s Court housed a Revolution Bar and whilst it was initially successful, the brand and the interior became tired.

Since then, at least one other operator has occupied the site.

According to Catrine Ortwed: “Previously, the space featured large booths accommodating 4-6 people, which created a dark and heavy atmosphere.

“We have transformed it by opening up the area, resulting in a more airy and inviting environment that no longer feels like stepping into a cave.

“Our redesign accommodates both larger groups and intimate settings for couples.”

Lighting

Removing the booths alone would still have left a number of dark and gloomy areas to the back of the restaurant, so lighting became a key factor in the design.

“The standout elements of our project are centred around the lighting,” says Catrine, “which plays a pivotal role in creating the perfect atmosphere.

“Lighting is crucial in a restaurant as it directly influences the ambiance, mood, and overall dining experience.”

“It’s truly exciting to be involved in designing a restaurant.

“My practical knowledge and understanding of what is needed have played a significant role in many of the decisions.

“This applies not only to providing the best experience for guests but also to ensuring optimal functionality for the staff.

“It has been a fantastic process, and I am very pleased with the outcome.”

Flanked by a chic marble bar with upholstered seats along one wall, the space features sophisticated dark wood, lamp-lit tables, muted tiled floors and deep green foliage throughout.

The design is well considered and attractive.

As Catrine says, for restaurants to succeed they need to work equally well for customers and for staff.

Ergonomically, the new layout makes it easy for staff to travel from table to kitchen to bar and back to table with ease, without interrupting the privacy and enjoyment of diners.

Soho is teeming with restaurants serving dishes that originate from around the world, and it is not short of good steakhouses, so KöD will need to work hard to thrive in the area.

But there is something unique about this restaurant:  something referred to as ‘the Danish Way’ of running a business, whereby there is a total absence of hierarchy.

Co-owner Morten Ortwed can be seen tending bar, collecting glasses, chatting to customers and even helping out in the kitchen.

This approach encourages a less formal approach and it is evident that the staff enjoy working in that environment.

It is an attitude that suits the characteristics of Soho.